Sashiko - Japanese embroidery

The Artful Embroidery Technique for Function, Aesthetics, and Quality Preservation

What is Sashiko?

Sashiko ( 刺し子) is a form of an embroidery technique that was developed to prolong the lifespan, improve heat insulation and enhance the durability of fabrics and garments.　

In 1724, the enactment of the "Farmers’ expenditure regulation" (農家倹約分限令) marked a significant change. Commoners were prohibited from wearing cotton fabric and had to turn to indigo-dyed hemp linen as an alternative, even though it provided limited warmth during winter's harsh conditions. In these challenging times, the basic running stitch flourished and developed into the Sashiko technique that we recognize today. Hemp textiles, while relatively strong and water-resistant, were not the most comfortable option for labor-intensive tasks like farming. Additionally, hemp is a cooler material and doesn't provide much warmth. To address these issues, artisans enhanced the fabric's durability by indigo-dyeing it and employing a layering technique, sewing the fabric with intricate stitching. This layering and stitching improved both durability and insulation. Strengthening the fabric with indigo also served the purpose of a shield from snake attacks during farming.

Another example would be the firefighters’ jackets. Highly intricate Sashiko stitching was used on cotton fabrics in order to maximize water absorption. Firefighters doused themselves with water while wearing the jacket and rushed to the scene. Many of the firefighters’ jackets are reversible; colorful linings were used for celebratory occasions after firefighting.

The geometric patterns of sashiko hold various prayers, such as "Asano-ha" (hemp leaves) representing the healthy growth of children from the straight growth of stems, "Seigaiha" depicting the waves of the bountiful sea, and "Shippo" symbolizing richness and harmony, all expressing different wishes and blessings.

The most renowned regional Sashiko styles

1. Tsugaru Kogin Sashiko (津軽こぎん刺し): From the Tsugaru region (around Hirosaki, Aomori Prefecture)

This style features geometric patterns stitched with thick, colorful threads on coarse cotton fabric. Young girls learned stitching from a young age, preparing Sashiko kimono for themselves and their future husbands. The most popular stitching technique in the region is done by picking up an odd number of stitches (1-3-5) along the warp threads.

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2. Nanbu Hishi Sashiko (南部菱刺し): From the Nanbu region (around Hachinohe and Towada, Aomori Prefecture)

The historical background is similar to Tsugaru Kogin Sashiko. However, while Tsugaru and Nanbu are neighboring regions, their approaches didn't necessarily align. They independently developed based on their circumstances and purposes. Stitches are picked up along even-numbered warp threads (2-4-6) to create a diamond pattern.

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3. Shonai Sashiko (庄内刺し子 ): From the Shonai region (around Sakata, Yamagata Prefecture)

This style is known for its intricate and delicate patterns. It often features floral motifs and requires meticulous stitching. A distinctive feature is that the stitching pattern isn't calculated. The diagonal reinforcement fabric, resembling a shoulder strap, adds strength for sled pulling.